Dining Features Article |
The Best Sandwiches: Edible Escapes
By Erin Byers, editor
ON THE SIDE
Moon Brine Pickles Stewart Golomb always loved pickles. So, a few years back, the third-grade teacher started making them at home and throwing parties so friends could try them, too. Those friends soon developed their own pick
Moon Brine Pickles Stewart Golomb always loved pickles. So, a few years back, the third-grade teacher started making them at home and throwing parties so friends could try them, too. Those friends soon developed their own pick
Given the culinary genius in Boston, we thought a good sandwich would be a cinch to find. So off we went, gobbling up more than 30 contenders. We deconstructed, then reassembled, them, taking into account bite radius, meat distribution, and overall dimension. And what did we learn? That finding the perfect sandwich is like rediscovering a lost art. From old favorites to new classics, edible escapes, and a few chefs’ secrets, here is our ultimate guide to the best.
Fish Taco The Fenway’s El Pelón Taqueria is nowhere near Mexico, but indulging in one of its tacos pescado will transport you to a seaside palapa. Just three components (spiced, lightly fried cod; pickled red cabbage; and thin cucumber strips) served in warm corn tortillas with a dab of spicy arbol chili mayo and lime-marinated onions for heat, make the easy-to-eat tacos a balance of textures and temperatures. Every one we eat makes us want to shout, “Olé!” $5.75, El Pelón Taqueria, 92 Peterborough St., Boston, 617-262-9090, www.elpelon.com.
Oyster Po’ boy We tend to get upset when outsiders “interpret” New England fare. But we’re awfully forgiving when locals change—indeed, improve—other regional standbys, as with Neptune Oyster’s po’ boy. At least a half dozen succulent, fried oysters spill off a toasted brioche bun (instead of French bread) brushed with tartar sauce. Neptune also skips lettuce and tomato, which, we think, just distract from the fried seafood goodness. This is one we’d be proud to introduce to our friends down south. $14.50, Neptune Oyster, 63 Salem St., Boston, 617-742-3474, www.neptuneoyster.com.
Falafel These chickpea patties are notoriously hard to eat. Traditionally served with lettuce, tomato, and tahini (rich sauce made from ground sesame seeds), they’re typically shoved into an undersized pita, leaving munchers with a mess on their hands. Literally. Angora Café offers a solution with its version of this Middle Eastern street food: a drip-free masterpiece. No napkins required. $4.95, Angora Café, 1024 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-232-1757, www.angoracafe.com.
Torta What Japan did for personal electronics, Mexico has done for lunch. Along with the taco and the burrito, our southern neighbor has given us the convenient hand-held pleasures of the torta: a savory pile of cheese, avocado, pinto beans, jalapeño slices, lettuce, tomato, and meat, layered onto a lightly toasted, crusty roll. At Tacos Lupita, it’s served with a choice of chicken, steak, chorizo, pork, or tongue—a delicious option, trust us. The combination of flavors gives the lie to a certain fast-food chain’s slogan: When there’s a torta on the menu, you’ll find it’s wise to think inside the bun. $4.20, Tacos Lupita, 13 Elm St., Somerville, 617-666-0677.
Bahn Mi At first glance, the Vietnamese bahn mi looks confused: sliced pork and ham, chicken liver pâté, sweet mayonnaise, pickled vegetables, and a sprig of cilantro all layered on a warm French baguette. But somehow this clash of cultures manages to embody all of the turmoil and reinvention of Vietnam itself, especially when it comes from a tiny, Asian deli near Dorchester’s Field’s Corner called Ba Le. Behind the counter, they’ll toss it all together (without a lick of English) to make one of the least identifiable (but most affordable) options on this list. $2.75, Ba Le, 1052 Dorchester Ave., Dorchester, 617-265-7171.
Cubano The key to a great Cubano is in the grilling. The whole, pork-and-cheese-filled package must be thoroughly pressed until it warms in its own steam but still develops a crunchy crust. Spire uses the requisite heavy hand. Inside a ciabatta roll, you’ll find layers of melty Gruyère and slow-roasted pork butt studded with locally made Moon Brine pickles. A slather of chipotle mayo delivers a spicy kick. $14.50 (available at lunch only), Spire, 90 Tremont St., Boston, 617-772-0202, www.spirerestaurant.com.
Italian Panino Trust Giorgio Armani (and the chefs in his café) to make something traditional look chic. We scoured the city for an authentic panino: focaccia, paper-thin prosciutto, and mozzarella. Only Armani Café came close. A pinch of salt and basil are the only accessories needed to set off the elegantly easy ingredients. This fashion icon knows: Simplicity never goes out of style. $9, Armani Café, 214 Newbury St., Boston, 617-437-0909.
Chacarero There’s only one place where a line of people wait happily outside in the rain for lunch: Chacarero. Opened years ago by Chilean immigrant Juan Hurtado, the takeout stand made this snack a cult favorite. Round flat bread is baked fresh each day, then stuffed with grilled chicken or beef, green beans, tomatoes, Muenster cheese, and an irresistible avocado spread. (The recipe is a well-guarded secret.) When Filene’s moves out, the future of Chacarero’s current location will hang in the balance, but addicts can still get their fix at the new (indoor!) location around the corner. $5.80 (small); $6.80 (large), Chacarero, 426 Washington St., Boston, 617-542-0392; 26 Province St., Boston, 617-367-1167, www.chacarero.com.
Coming up in Part 5: Chefs' Secrets.
Part 4: Edible Escapes
Fish Taco The Fenway’s El Pelón Taqueria is nowhere near Mexico, but indulging in one of its tacos pescado will transport you to a seaside palapa. Just three components (spiced, lightly fried cod; pickled red cabbage; and thin cucumber strips) served in warm corn tortillas with a dab of spicy arbol chili mayo and lime-marinated onions for heat, make the easy-to-eat tacos a balance of textures and temperatures. Every one we eat makes us want to shout, “Olé!” $5.75, El Pelón Taqueria, 92 Peterborough St., Boston, 617-262-9090, www.elpelon.com.
Oyster Po’ boy We tend to get upset when outsiders “interpret” New England fare. But we’re awfully forgiving when locals change—indeed, improve—other regional standbys, as with Neptune Oyster’s po’ boy. At least a half dozen succulent, fried oysters spill off a toasted brioche bun (instead of French bread) brushed with tartar sauce. Neptune also skips lettuce and tomato, which, we think, just distract from the fried seafood goodness. This is one we’d be proud to introduce to our friends down south. $14.50, Neptune Oyster, 63 Salem St., Boston, 617-742-3474, www.neptuneoyster.com.
Falafel These chickpea patties are notoriously hard to eat. Traditionally served with lettuce, tomato, and tahini (rich sauce made from ground sesame seeds), they’re typically shoved into an undersized pita, leaving munchers with a mess on their hands. Literally. Angora Café offers a solution with its version of this Middle Eastern street food: a drip-free masterpiece. No napkins required. $4.95, Angora Café, 1024 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-232-1757, www.angoracafe.com.
Torta What Japan did for personal electronics, Mexico has done for lunch. Along with the taco and the burrito, our southern neighbor has given us the convenient hand-held pleasures of the torta: a savory pile of cheese, avocado, pinto beans, jalapeño slices, lettuce, tomato, and meat, layered onto a lightly toasted, crusty roll. At Tacos Lupita, it’s served with a choice of chicken, steak, chorizo, pork, or tongue—a delicious option, trust us. The combination of flavors gives the lie to a certain fast-food chain’s slogan: When there’s a torta on the menu, you’ll find it’s wise to think inside the bun. $4.20, Tacos Lupita, 13 Elm St., Somerville, 617-666-0677.
Bahn Mi At first glance, the Vietnamese bahn mi looks confused: sliced pork and ham, chicken liver pâté, sweet mayonnaise, pickled vegetables, and a sprig of cilantro all layered on a warm French baguette. But somehow this clash of cultures manages to embody all of the turmoil and reinvention of Vietnam itself, especially when it comes from a tiny, Asian deli near Dorchester’s Field’s Corner called Ba Le. Behind the counter, they’ll toss it all together (without a lick of English) to make one of the least identifiable (but most affordable) options on this list. $2.75, Ba Le, 1052 Dorchester Ave., Dorchester, 617-265-7171.
Cubano The key to a great Cubano is in the grilling. The whole, pork-and-cheese-filled package must be thoroughly pressed until it warms in its own steam but still develops a crunchy crust. Spire uses the requisite heavy hand. Inside a ciabatta roll, you’ll find layers of melty Gruyère and slow-roasted pork butt studded with locally made Moon Brine pickles. A slather of chipotle mayo delivers a spicy kick. $14.50 (available at lunch only), Spire, 90 Tremont St., Boston, 617-772-0202, www.spirerestaurant.com.
Italian Panino Trust Giorgio Armani (and the chefs in his café) to make something traditional look chic. We scoured the city for an authentic panino: focaccia, paper-thin prosciutto, and mozzarella. Only Armani Café came close. A pinch of salt and basil are the only accessories needed to set off the elegantly easy ingredients. This fashion icon knows: Simplicity never goes out of style. $9, Armani Café, 214 Newbury St., Boston, 617-437-0909.
Chacarero There’s only one place where a line of people wait happily outside in the rain for lunch: Chacarero. Opened years ago by Chilean immigrant Juan Hurtado, the takeout stand made this snack a cult favorite. Round flat bread is baked fresh each day, then stuffed with grilled chicken or beef, green beans, tomatoes, Muenster cheese, and an irresistible avocado spread. (The recipe is a well-guarded secret.) When Filene’s moves out, the future of Chacarero’s current location will hang in the balance, but addicts can still get their fix at the new (indoor!) location around the corner. $5.80 (small); $6.80 (large), Chacarero, 426 Washington St., Boston, 617-542-0392; 26 Province St., Boston, 617-367-1167, www.chacarero.com.
Coming up in Part 5: Chefs' Secrets.
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