Freezer Yearn

Here in the food department, we’re skeptical of “light” products like tofu bacon, baked potato chips, and nonfat half and half. (What precisely is the other half?) Some foods are just meant to be bad for you. The fat is what makes them taste good.

Then along comes Booozah, and our whole theory blows up. Booozah, which means “ice cream” in Arabic, has about half the butterfat of Western ice creams (less than 10 percent instead of the usual 18 to 24 percent) but still tastes decadent.

Booozah flavors are an equally refreshing change. Along with the usual chocolate and vanilla, Booozah offers White Orchid Supreme, a mildly sour vanilla akin to crème fraîche made with Middle Eastern sahlab, or ground orchid root; a deliciously floral kiwi; and a zesty lemon sorbet. For once, we’re more than happy to be proved wrong.

>> Available at Whole Foods Market, 15 Westland Ave., Boston, 617-375-1010 (and other locations), $4.99 per pint; and DeLuca’s Market, 11 Charles St., Boston, 617-523-4343, 239 Newbury St., Boston, 617-262-5990, $4.39 per pint; booozah.com.