The Secrets of the Chefs

ANA SORTUN

Trained in Paris, Ana Sortun was later seduced by the exotic flavors of the Middle East. After she opened Oleana, it wasn’t long before we were seduced, too. This year, the James Beard Foundation named Sortun the best chef in the Northeast.

WHERE TO SHOP
Sevan Bakery “We buy here for the restaurant, up to three times a week. You can’t beat the price or quality anywhere for olives, yogurt, spices, chilies, and flatbread. One of my favorites is mantee, toasted Turkish ravioli stuffed with ground meat. I put them in chicken broth and finish the soup with yogurt for a winter treat.” [599 Mount Auburn St., Watertown, 617-924-3243]
Alyson’s Orchard “This farm has more than 20 kinds of heirloom apples with gorgeous names like Maiden’s Blush and Dolgo Crab, even one called Winter Banana. Pick your own or buy at the farm stand.” [57 Alyson’s Lane, Walpole, N.H., 800-856-0549, alysonsorchard.com]
Violette Wine Cellars “This funky shop specializes in organic and biodynamic wines that normally end up only on restaurant tables. The owner, Richard Kzirian, is extremely knowledgeable and passionate. Just tell him what you’re having for dinner and he’ll pick you out a great bottle.” [One Belmont St., Cambridge, 617-876-4125]

WHERE TO EAT
Belle Isle “This is the best place to get a lobster roll outside of Maine. Even better, it’s open all year round. The owners pick up fresh lobsters every day. They toss in the tiniest bit of mayonnaise and that’s it. It’s like a whole lobster in a bun. To die for.” [1267 Saratoga St., East Boston, 617-567-1619]

SECRET WEAPON
Mortar and pestle “There’s no substitute for grinding spices the old-fashioned way. Buy one big enough that you can fit a couple of cups of stuff in it. I use one made of olive wood to make caesar salad dressing. It doesn’t taste the same if I make it any other way.” [$78. Available at Williams-Sonoma, Copley Place, Boston, 617-262-3080, and other locations; williams-sonoma.com.]

PERFECT HOLIDAY GIFT
“Fastachi nuts are irresistible. You can get simple roast almonds or cashews or mixes with dried fruit, dried chickpeas, and legumes. They’re available at several places, but the company’s own retail store in Watertown packages them up beautifully.” [598 Mount Auburn St., Watertown, 617-924-8787, fastachi.com]

HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING TRICK
Quick fix “I’m not a fan of prepared foods but I always keep lahmejune, flatbread pizzas topped with meat and vegetables, in my freezer. If people come over, I reheat them like tortillas in a nonstick pan. Then I cut them into wedges and serve them with yogurt.” [Available at Sevan Bakery, 599 Mount Auburn St., Watertown, 617-924-3243.]

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