The Ultimate: Guacamole

*****Angela's Café

Take note, all you purveyors of watery glop in little plastic containers: Angela's understands that a great guac depends entirely on a perfectly ripe avocado. The kitchen makes it to order in a molcajete (the Mexican version of a mortar and pestle), which breaks the fruit down just enough that you have some nice chunks in a creamy base. Then the cooks blend in balanced hits of salt and lime to cut through the richness and give it zip, a sprinkling of fresh diced tomato, and ample cilantro for herbaceous sweetness. The results are served with lightly salted blue and yellow tortilla chips for easy (not greasy) scooping. 131 Lexington St., East Boston, 617-567-4972,

Uneven Spreads [The Runners-Up]:

**** 1/2 Olé: Made tableside, it's a nice mashup but needs more lime to really sing.

*** Casa Romero: Rich, thick, creamy, and exceptionally generous with the cilantro.

** 1/2 La Verdad: A smidge underseasoned, despite a liberal scattering of cotija cheese.

** Sol Azteca: Begs for the zing of fresh lime and herbs.