Vintage Thrift

Wine writers make their living in breathless superlatives, but nothing compares to the buzz surrounding the 2005 vintage from France's kingly Bordeaux region. A long, dry growing season, warm days, and cool nights brought its signature grapes to full expression, with perfectly balanced tannins, sugars, and acidity. As early as March 2006, critics were calling it the best vintage in decades, stronger even than the hallowed 1982, thanks to lower yields that had resulted in more-concentrated fruit.

What followed was a feeding frenzy. Collectors mopped up the cream of the crop-Château Lafite Rothschild was selling for around $8,500 a case before the wine had hit the bottles (by contrast, the solid if workaday 2004 vintage went for $2,500 at the time). By last August, that 2005 case was going for about $17,000.

"The train is long out of the station in terms of collectible classified-growth Bordeaux," said John Hafferty, managing partner of Bin Ends, a deep-discount fine-wine store in Braintree. But Boston oenophiles need not despair. There is plenty of great Bordeaux to go around, especially the kind that won't force you to take out a second mortgage.

THE BEAUTY OF BOURGEOIS

Her'’s the corker: The perfect growing conditions of 2005 extended across the region, so it's almost impossible to go wrong. "You'd really have to be a bad winemaker to screw up these grapes," says Nantucket Wine Festival founder Denis Toner. No need, then, to limit yourself to pricey first-growth, or premier grand cru, wines. Other tiers-second- through fifth-growth, and down to cru bourgeois-are still exceptional, and much less expensive.

Examples: Château Brane-Cantenac ($105), fifth-growth Château Cos Labory ($65).

Where to Buy: Orleans Wine & Spirits (9 West Rd., Orleans, 508-255-2812, orleanswine.com). Owner Robert "Bordeaux Bobby" Valchuis lives up to his nickname: While first-growths are now gone, he boasts an ample supply of all the rest.

SECOND-LABEL, FIRST-RATE VALUE

Just as three-star Michelin chefs open brasseries, so, too, do major châteaus create second-label wines, which are generally made from younger vines or from another vineyard source while still maintaining the producer's high standards.

Examples: Larose de Gruaud ($40), Connétable Talbot ($30).

Where to Buy: Bauer Wine & Spirits (330 Newbury St., Boston, 617-262-0363, bauerwines.com). Co-owner Howie Rubin doesn't want to be pigeonholed, but his knowledge and inventory of Bordeaux second-labels make him the go-to guy for these wines.

GO PETITE

The term "petite château" (literally, "small house") pertains to nonclassified wines-outside the purview of the traditional 1855 classification system-and can signify a great value for your money. Petite châteaus include lesser-known producers that are often located off the beaten track bordering famous appellations.

Examples: Château Fontaneau ($12), Château Beauregard-Ducourt ($10.40).

Where to Buy: Bin Ends (236 Wood Rd., Braintree, 781-817-1212, binendswine.com). Petite châteaus and low-profile producers are this store's forte.

THE WAITING GAIN

If you absolutely must have a first-growth, buy two bottles (ensuring a backup in case one goes bad). Don't even think about instant gratification-these bad boys are made to cellar. Drink one bottle in about 15 years, and the other as close to 2030 as you can wait.

Example: Château Haut-Brion ($1,200).

Where to Buy: Marty's Liquors (675 Washington St., Newton, 617-332-1230). Assistant wine director Peter Tryba has deep connections to négociants and distributors.