Small Bites Article |
Winsome Dim Sum
A Chinatown newcomer puts the course before the cart.
By Jolyon Helterman
- THE RICE IS RIGHT: Winsor Dim Sum Cafe. Photo by Lisa Richov.
Traditional dim sum can feel a tad frenetic for a groggy weekend morn: wrestling for space at communal tables, competing for the attentions of pushcarts, negotiating menu translations. Winsor Dim Sum Café represents a refreshingly anti-stress option, forgoing the cart in favor of a checklist from which food is made to order and served in a succession of courses. Not one item we sampled was a dud, and many were stellar: Pork-and-peanut dumplings paired pillowy lightness with welcome crunch; fried pot stickers avoided the "dense meatball" effect that plagues lesser versions; thick, chewy noodles fried with sausage and tangy preserved radish were satisfying comfort food. The most novel dish was a deep-fried pork bun with a filling so sugary it tasted like dessert—and so good we ordered seconds. Ah, pork…the other fried sweet.
10 Tyler St., Boston, 617-338-1688.
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