At the latest project of restaurant super-sibs Babak Bina and Azita Bina-Seibel, you'll find some of the best-conceived and expertly executed plates in the city. Start with the feather-light gnocchi with chorizo, Meyer lemon, and shellfish, then move on to the signature hay-"roasted" quail (the effect is subtle) served with a little knob of foie gras. But at $35, we question whether the restaurant is aggressively pricey, or just right.