Now that eating local has gone mainstream, many menus prattle on, name-checking every farmer, bloodline, and land mass that begat the pedigreed blob on your plate. So it is at Hen of the Wood - though here, gracefully executed items like Winding Brook Farm pork loin with local spring-dug parsnips actually deserve such royal treatment by chef Eric Warnstedt. The waterfall crashing outside this former grist mill is full of majesty, too.
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