We have a rule that the words “cheap” and “sushi” should never go together. When fish is eaten raw, money should be no object, right? But every rule has its exceptions—and Kyotoya is one of them. Hidden in a Stoneham strip mall just off I-93, this tiny storefront offers some of the freshest and best-priced maki, hand rolls, and nigiri in town. Pick your own combo of 18 pieces of sushi for a ridiculously low $19.95. Or try something new, like the stylish cucumber-wrapped hand roll of spicy tuna served upright in a stand, or the delicate panko-breaded tofu lightly fried and set in a fish broth laced with ginger and scallions. Even the simple noodle dish nabeyaki udon leans toward exotic, with prawn tempura on the side and a cracked egg over the top. The list of special maki is heavy on artificial crabmeat, and alcohol is not served, but watching smiling sushi chef Cathy Lei turn out hand rolls from behind her closet-size station is worth the drive—and every penny.
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