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Oga's

915 Worcester Rd. (rte. 9)
Natick, MA 01760

Phone: 508-653-4338

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Fax: 508-653-2913

Website: ogasnatick.com

Oga’s Japanese Cuisine, a stylish suburban enclave with modern (meaning "globally inspired") Japanese cuisine, competes with such commendable Boston staples as Ginza, Oishii, and Fugakyu. Squatting in a Natick strip mall, it is decorated by chef and part owner Toru Oga (a Ginza cofounder) with long stalks of bamboo, embedded pebbles, and slick, stainless-steel tables. The effect is at once soothing and energizing. So is the food. Baby hamachi is served tartare—creamy, a little salty, and slightly sweet. Paper-thin slices of red snapper are flanked by stuffed, delicately fried peppers, the tough-to-find toro is sweet and sharp flavored, and the velvety sea urchin is so rich it’s almost meaty. The wine list, though short, offers smart picks, and menu prices are surprisingly reasonable.