You have to leave work on time to grab dinner at Ortanique, a cheery little Jamaican joint in Huron Village where the kitchen shuts down at 7 p.m. But the restaurant’s devotees—who include cultured Cambridge matrons and chowhounds on the hunt for authentic island fare—more than tolerate the quirky schedule maintained by husband-and-wife proprietors Leon and Valerie Welch. You get the sense they’re rooting for the couple to succeed. Given the tiny dining area, many opt for takeout, loading up on piquant beef patties and containers of jerk chicken, escabeche (spicy fried fish), and, our pick, succulent curry goat. The Welches also brew up sorrel drink, a thirst-quenching, slightly bitter traditional holiday beverage, as well as a potent ginger beer.
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