The culinary vestiges of France’s rule over Cambodia endure at long-time favorite Elephant Walk. Under the firm hand of mother-daughter chef team Nyep and Nadsa de Montiero, the kitchen turns out delicately flavored dishes including earthy mushroom soup, brightened with a hit of fragrant basil oil and black cod with sweet and sour notes from a ginger–coconut milk sauce and a pickled red-pepper salsa, plus a bevy of fabulous vegetarian options. A 2003 fire closed the restaurant for several months but the resulting renovation has made the ambiance as pleasurable as the food.