209, the reincarnation of Club Café, is perched on the South End’s less-than-charming outskirts and draws a clientele similar to Club Café’s (read: mostly gay). Its brushed-steel tables separate the dining room from the casual bar area (still, in fact, called Club Café). Meanwhile, the menu infuses real heat, giving a spicy kick to New England recipes. The fiery “Austin-tatious” clam chowder hums with ancho and cascabel chili peppers, for example, and a mixed-grill entrée marries tender Sam Adams–braised baby-back ribs with chicken smothered in puréed poblano cream and a petit filet. The reasonable prices reflect the café’s commitment to neighborhood patrons.