Raw fish may not be the reason most Bostonians head for the Fenway neighborhood, but Umi—a minimally decorated, 12-table spot—rolls out impressively fresh and unusual maki and sashimi. "Umi" means “sea” in Japanese, so while the cooked tempura and teriyaki specials are perfectly good, you’ll do best to go straight for the sashimi—rolls of translucent snapper, sweet maguro (tuna), and tender slabs of salmon. (More-daring diners can opt for specials such as monkfish liver.) The creative maki include several homages, including the Red Sox Maki, which relies on the saltiness of fish eggs cut with the richness of shrimp tempura and avocado. Go early—and dive into some of the fruit-infused sakes while you wait.
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