Just because Old Québec is almost unbearably quaint doesn't mean all its restaurants are tourist traps. We've had seriously good (and seriously pricey) meals at Laurie Raphaël, Le Saint-Amour, and Le Château Frontenac, the castle-like hotel that dominates the skyline. For budget meals, go for the huge platters at Le Buffet de L'Antiquaire, and the soups and sandwiches at Chez Temporel. For picnic provisions, head to the farmers' market at the Old Port or Épicerie J. A. Moisan, said to be the oldest grocery store in North America; there we bought Riopelle, a runny, triple-cream cheese from the province, and a local sausage heady with wine and shallots. Across the street from Moisan's is the Choco-Musée Érico, a tiny chocolate shop and “museum” that pours demitasse cups of sweet, intensely brewed dark chocolate.
Lodging runs the gamut, and Québec is home to a number of new boutique hotels, including the sophisticated Auberge Ste.-Antoine.
Traditionalists love the over-the-top baroqueness of the copper-roofed Château Frontenac with its ornate Gilded Age lobby. More affordable options include the much-smaller Manoir sur-le-Cap, which is practically next door to the Frontenac, and the family-friendly Hotel Palace Royal.
On the off chance that you start to feel homesick upon arrival, stroll into the Frontenac's lavishly appointed St.-Laurent Lounge and ask the bartender to mix you up a stiff Cape Codder. As the jus de cranberge and vodka works its magic, dial up your Vineyard-bound buddies—they may still be braking their way down Route 3.
Birthday Parties
A timeline of Québec's 400th anniversary events, from April to October 2008.
By Elizabeth Tingue
April 13
“Le clan des oiseaux (The Bird Clan),” a performance by the Symphonic Orchestra of Québec
A sweeping orchestral narrative that combines myth, magic, and reality, the performance is appropriate for young and old music lovers alike. 877-643-8486, osq.qc.ca.
April 16–20
Series of Literary Activities on the Theme of Québec City, the Muse, presented by the Salon internationale du livre de Québec
Bring a beret and brush elbows with the local Francophile writers who will be reading and mingling at various events. 418-692-0010, silq.org.
April 18–20
Gastronomy Festival of Québec City
Sample fare from some of the area's most prominent chefs at this gourmet affair. 418-683-4150, crq.ca/En.
May 1-31
Cirque ici: Le Secret
Johann Le Guillerm of the Cirque ici troupe makes his North American premiere with this high-tech performance. 418-648-2008.
May 2–18
2008 IIHF World Championship
Hockey, the darling of the Canadian sports world, comes home for a competition between the world's 16 best teams. 418-622-2008, hockeycanada.ca.
May 17–26
Starmania
A not-to-be-missed rock opera starring cross-dressers and robot waitresses, among others. 418-529-0688, operadequebec.qc.ca/english/starmania.htm.
June 17
Beethoven 1808–2008
More than 100 established musicians will collaborate on this huge homage at the Palais Montcalm. 418-641 6040, violonsduroy.com.
June 20-July 29
“The Image Mill"
For 40 nights, stunning architectural images are projected onto buildings citywide. 418-692-5323, lacaserne.net.
July 3
Anniversary Date of Québec's Founding
Join dignitaries from around the world at the Basilique de Québec for a traditional ceremony, parade, and dance-filled celebration. 418-648-2008, monquebec2008.com.
July 8–12
5th Festival OFF de Québec
A cutting-edge, nonprofit music festival showcasing emerging international indie artists. 418-692-1008, quebecoff.org.
July 19–August 6
Loto Québec International Fireworks Competition
Top fireworks artists meet on the banks of the St. Lawrence River to see who can set off the most dramatic explosion. 888-934-3473, lesgrandsfeux.com/en.
July 30–August 3
Festivent: Hot Air Balloon Festival
For five days, at morning and dusk, more than 80 big balloons will be launched from both sides of the St. Lawrence River. 418-660-7052, festivent.net.
August 5–10
Meeting of the Giants
A wonderfully bizarre public gathering of entertainers dressed as gargantuan historical marionettes (like we said, wonderfully bizarre). 418-694-9481, geantsdequebec.com.
August 29–30
Fashion 400: an Art, a Culture
Talented local designers parade new collections down the catwalk. 800-463-8041, mode.cndf.qc.ca.
September 13
Envol et Macadam Music Festival
Alt-rockers from five nations strum innovative tunes for this high-concept show. 418-522-1611, envoletmacadam.com.
October 1–31
Halloween in Jeanne d'Arc Park
Throughout the month, the park is “haunted” by scary décor and Halloween-themed walkways.
October 19
Cirque du Soleil
The gravity-defying, Montreal-based circus troupe wraps up the anniversary celebration with a one-time-only performance. 418-648-2008, cirquedusoleil.com.
