Feature Article

Next Stop: Paradise

Page 3 of 6

May/June
Lisbon
Average temperatures:
May: 55–71 degrees
June: 60–76 degrees

Some ill-informed globetrotters have dismissed Portugal as little more than a European appendage, whose principal claim to fame is that the country had been home to a few famous explorers. But Lisbon’s dark ages ended centuries ago, and savvy travelers have discovered a world-class capital full of contemporary delights and ancient history. A visit to the coastal city prompts a welcome sensory assault in the form of the sultry tones of fado, Portuguese folk music, and the spicy taste of bacalhau, a traditional salt cod dish. The nearby beaches of Estoril are far less crowded than Spain’s, and romantics can wander for hours along Lisbon’s narrow medieval streets.

Sweet suites: Behind a simple blue door off a quiet side street, Solar do Castelo is an urban oasis. Circled by the walls of Castelo São Jorge and housed in an 18th-century mansion, the 14-room hotel spares no modern expense. Don’t miss a nightcap in the low-lit inner stone courtyard (351-21-880-6050, solardocastelo.com).

Like much in Lisbon, the Bairro Alto Hotel, a 1770 Praça Luís de Camões spot, is a blend of past and present. Today, it sits at the nexus of two emerging districts, Bairro Alto and Chiado, and within steps of the city’s best bars, restaurants, and fado houses. Inside the hotel, the sites are equally enticing: sweeping views from the 6th-floor terrace and guest DJs in the café bar (351-21-340-8288, bairroaltohotel.com).

One memorable meal: High above the Tagus River, Restaurant Eleven—named for its near-dozen owners—serves sophisticated food in an attitude-free setting. Couples looking for adventure can request the kitchen table (literally situated amid the cooks); those seeking privacy can nibble curry-crusted lamb with date couscous on the outdoor terrace (351-21-386-2211, restauranteleven.com).

Compatibility Test
Best for: Medieval historians, fado fans, city strollers, golfers, those looking for an alternative to touristy Barcelona.
Not for: Snowbirds, Mai Tai drinkers, techies, the seafood-averse.

-Greg Lalas

To find out about honeymoons in Iceland, go on to the next page...

 

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