Liquids: Sangria
I’ve been called many things in my lifetime (especially by my wife), but “prescient” isn’t one of them. However, I think I’ve spotted a trend in the making in bars and restaurants all over town: bartenders pouring out pitchers of sangria like it’s water. Yes, sangria—the red wine punch. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about, let me clear up two muy importante misconceptions on behalf of our Spanish friends: First, forget about Yago; second, sangria has nothing to do with those so-called wine coolers that reached horrific heights of popularity in the ’80s. Sangria, Spain’s delicious summer wine punch, has been around for as long as anyone can remember. It’s one of the most refreshing drinks you could make at the height of summer.
But before you reach for your castanets, a little history to impress your friends around the punchbowl. Though its exact origin is often debated, sangria was originally created using Rioja, the anything-but-bashful red wine from northern Spain’s Basque country. Though they are masterful at making red wine, the Spanish are also smart enough to realize that when summer is at its hottest, red wine tastes unpleasantly tannic, with flabby fruit and highly pronounced alcohol (think schnapps). Combining local wine with fresh juices and fruit helps balance the wine, making it flavorful and easier to drink. Thus was born sangria. Most recipes today call for the addition of brandy. Purists will insist it be Spanish brandy. And the purest of the pure will insist that the wine be Spanish, too. A fruity red such as René Barbier Mediterranean Tinto for around six bucks does the trick nicely.
To get to the bottom of sangria, Boston-style, I start out at Dalí, where general manager Cesar Salgado claims he makes the undisputed best in town. Why? “Because you’ve got to put a lot of love into sangria,” says Salgado, adding, after a long pause, “and I put a lot of love into our sangria.” Though my inner frat boy is afraid to ask exactly how he does this, the reporter in me begs him to elaborate. “We use traditional ingredients: a Spanish red wine, sugar, orange juice, orange liqueur, Spanish brandy, oranges.” And? “And it has to be done overnight to taste right; that makes the flavor very intense. When you just mix it up bang bang bang, it tastes like the one they make in bottles.”
Of course, once I begin asking other bartenders for their recipes, the variations seem endless. Alex Jablonski, bar manager at Macondo, says the appeal of his sangria is its subtle sweetness. “It’s got nice, sweet, fruity body to it,” he says. “It’s the same logic as the cosmopolitan—it doesn’t taste high in alcohol—so it disarms people.” His recipe calls for a Portuguese red wine, orange juice, lemon juice, lime juice, “a bit of mint-infused simple syrup,” sugar, club soda, and a splash of Triple Sec.
At the Blue Room, co-owner Nick Zappia created the house favorite, which he calls “Sangria 22.” What I like most about this version is that it combines sweet with savory flavors, blending cassis, Triple Sec, brandy, and citrus juices with one whole cinnamon stick.
Zappia’s partner, Deanna Briggs, created a white wine version made with cava (a dry Spanish sparkler), white wine, pear brandy, Grand Marnier, grapefruit juice, and lime juice. It’s similar to a style popular in southern Spain, where white sangria is called zurra and is made with peaches and nectarines.
What all of these recipes have in common is fresh fruit, fresh squeezed juices, and decent quality wine as a foundation. Take inspiration from these recipes and experiment yourself. What’s the worst that could happen? Your friends might describe it (or you!) as tannic, flabby, and high in alcohol. I’ve been called a lot worse.
Sangria 22
Adapted from the Blue Room
1 bottle fruity red wine (a Rioja, shiraz, or syrah)
1 c. crème de cassis
1 c. port wine
1 c. Triple Sec
1 c. brandy
1 c. cranberry juice
1 c. fresh-squeezed orange juice
Juice of one lemon
1 cinnamon stick
2 each of oranges, lemons, and limes, cut into chunks
Combine all ingredients in a large pitcher at least a day ahead of time, and place in refrigerator. Stir well before serving, and pour into wineglasses. Garnish with orange, lemon, or lime wheels.
White Sangria
Adapted from Deanna Briggs
1/2 bottle cava (using a normal 750-mL size)
1/2 bottle fruity white wine (such as white Rioja, chardonnay, or pinot gris)
1 c. pear brandy (or any flavored brandy)
1 c. Grand Marnier (or Triple Sec)
1 c. fresh grapefruit juice
juice of one lime
2 each of oranges, lemons, and limes, cut into chunks
Combine all ingredients in a large pitcher at least a day ahead of time (if possible), and place in refrigerator. Stir well before serving, and pour into wineglasses. Garnish with orange, lemon, or lime wheels.