Small Bite: Everything’s Relative

Elegant Sasso must aim higher to match its sister’s success.

North End favorite Lucca got a sibling this winter, as Sasso debuted in the former Blackfin spot on Huntington Avenue. While the family resemblance is strong—the two share the same chef, David Ross, and the same enthusiasm for taking regional Italian upscale—Sasso’s got a bit of Back Bay hauteur in its DNA, too. The grand two-story space offers details meant to impress (20-foot windows, imported marble staircase), along with meticulously plated pastas, seafood, and meats. Our food looked amazing, especially the costolette, a small mountain of short-rib beef. Yet with apps averaging $15 and entrées creeping toward $40, we felt entitled to quibble with the bland seafood in the crudo misto, too-cold white chocolate mousse terrine that was fork-defyingly dense, and unevenly cooked beef. Sasso may have a strong pedigree, but it’ll need equally strong food, too, in order to make the family proud. 116 Huntington Ave., Boston, 617-247-2400,