Small Bite: Love Ya Lots

A new Leather District sushi spot approaches perfection.

Some restaurants you’re tempted to keep secret, a selfish attempt to ward off the crowds. Some, like newcomer O Ya, you want to keep secret but just can’t help talking about. There’s the décor: the hidden door that leads to high ceilings, dark wood, and exposed beams. There’s the service: unobtrusive yet knowledgeable about every single item on the menu. But it’s those tiny, flawlessly refined dishes that make us want to shout from the rooftops: foie gras sushi with balsamic chocolate kabayaki (the sauce usually found on barbecued eel); scarlet sea scallop with white soy, yuzu, and tobiko; and chu toro with cilantro pesto and Peruvian chilies.

Despite such showstopping sushi, it’s worth your while to branch out, too. The fresh house salad of cabbage, spiced walnuts, and mint is exquisitely balanced, and the shrimp tempura with bacon-truffle emulsion is as dreamy as it sounds. The prices are high, but food this stellar is worth every penny.

9 East St., Boston, 617-654-9900.