Small Bite: A Real Knockout

Who says a steakhouse has to hew to the boys-club tradition?

“Just what we need!” was the snide reaction to word that Ken Oringer’s latest project, KO Prime, would be yet another steakhouse. Another meatery, even a “modern” one, simply wasn’t what Boston lacked.

Or was it? Like celeb chefs in New York and L.A., Oringer has created a steakhouse that’s in touch with its feminine side. Yes, the usuals are here: the Flintstones-size rib-eye and, for the really macho, the $30-an-ounce cut of Wagyu. But it’s the other stuff that sets KO apart, like the cowgirl-chic décor, a dainty crab-and-grapefruit salad, and chichi sides like the oh-so-à-la-mode aligote potatoes, which stretch like taffy. Early on, not every riff was in key, but we’re betting it’s only a matter of time before the delicate pea tendrils in Asian vinaigrette become a steakhouse classic.

Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., Boston, 617-772-0202,