Where to Dine Now

The 20 Best Midprice Restaurants

These exceptional spots—nearly half of which opened in this past year—provide all the requisite dining pleasures, with one notable advantage: entrées that stay under $25.

Ashmont Grill

Chef-owner Chris Douglass has been a pioneer in the local New American food movement since he opened the South End’s Icarus in 1978. His Ashmont Grill in Dorchester is the Platonic ideal of a midprice place: chef-driven, ambitious (the weekly Monday Night Wine Club has turned even the most unlikely into oenophiles), stylish, and eminently affordable (entrées top out at $18). His deliciously simple fare, like flatiron steak with herb butter ($17) and pork chops with butternut squash bread pudding ($18), proves how good no-frills cooking can be when quality ingredients are matched by solid technique. Can’t-Miss Dish: The shatteringly crisp onion rings ($4).

555 Talbot Ave., Dorchester, 617-825-4300, ashmontgrill.com.

Beehive

It was breathlessly hyped as Boston’s nightlife savior, then subsequently strung up for attracting a yuppie crowd. What got lost in the ruckus is that this restaurant/lounge/jazz club is a great place to nab a tasty, wallet-friendly meal. (Yes, the revelers may get noisy, but eating before 8:30 will usually guarantee a peaceful experience in charmingly unbuttoned surroundings.) If you’re dining with a group, start with the Bohemian Platter, a generous collection of smoked meats, cheeses, and accents like roasted grapes ($23), or order the tender, perfectly seasoned peddler’s steak with porcini mushroom butter ($23) all for yourself. You won’t find much in the way of “lite” here, but the smoked chicken salad served with greens, chopped egg, and bacon ($14) would at least pass the Atkins test. Worth Every Calorie: The seared foie gras over poutine, a mix of frites, gravy, and cheese ($19)—a nod to the famed signature dish of Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal.

541 Tremont St., Boston, 617-423-0069, beehiveboston.com.

Café D

This vibrant spot on Jamaica Plain’s main drag began life as Arbor, a critically acclaimed bistro that struggled for neighborhood regulars. Ever since chef-owner Doug Organ relaunched it as Café D in 2006, however, the low-key hangout has kept tables turning even on Sunday nights. The menu combines sophisticated Mediterranean-inspired fare (such as a standout Moroccan spiced lamb for $22.50, a holdover from the Arbor days) with hearty crowd-pleasers (sensational Baja fish tacos at $12.50). And to wash it all down: one of the most reasonably priced wine lists in town. Early-Bird Special: The three-course prix fixe, served daily until 7 p.m., for a mere $26.50.

711 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-522-9500, cafedboston.com.

Franklin Cafe

You’ve seen this lineup before: the steak frites ($19), the crispy duck–frisée salad ($8), the miso-glazed salmon ($18). But what makes this tiny (and dark) South End bar-café stand out from the crowd—and what’s long made it a hands-down late-night favorite for chefs and waiters—is the sheer quality of the food. Tomato-and-ricotta-stuffed crêpes ($8) are scented with an unexpected hint of lemon zest. Prune-glazed pork tenderloin ($18) is served atop a smooth-as-silk sweet potato purée. Sit at the bar and talk to the locals: You’re sure to hear good stories, and more than a little neighborhood gossip. Perfect Pairing: A shochu–white cranberry cocktail ($8) with the crispy duck salad. 278

Shawmut Ave., Boston, 617-350-0010, franklincafe.com.

Garden at the Cellar

Chef Will Gilson first attracted attention as a high schooler, working in Boston restaurants by night and preparing multicourse meals at his family’s Herb Lyceum farm and restaurant in Groton on weekends. Now the 2005 Johnson & Wales graduate has brought his farm-fresh sensibility to this gastropub above the popular subterranean Cambridge bar the Cellar. The food is New American and the menu shifts with the seasons. Best bets include anything containing Gilson’s masterful vegetable purées (sort of like luxury baby food for grownups), and the varied and substantial salads. Catch of the Day: The citrus-glazed organic salmon with celery root, buttered leeks, orange-thyme sauce, and herb salad ($18).

991 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-230-5880, gardenatthecellar.com.

Gaslight

This South End boîte has taken some hits for its by-the-numbers approach to brasserie-dom (right down to the white subway wall tiles and the Edith Piaf soundtrack). Chalk it up to timing, opening as it did at the tail end of Boston’s brasserie boom—because Gaslight deserves credit for its very reasonable prices (all entrées are less than $20), its creative cocktails, its wonderfully authentic croque-monsieur ($9.75), and the light hand its kitchen brings to fish dishes like the pôelée espagnol ($19.50). Even if the whole experience feels a bit prepackaged, it’s still a pleasant Parisian escape. Grade A: The steak frites, a terrifically tender and flavorful cut of beef for just $19.75.

560 Harrison Ave., Boston, 617-422-0224, gaslight560.com.

Green Street

“Didn’t this used to be a dumpy Caribbean place?” It’s not an uncommon question for first-time visitors to the former Green Street Grill, relaunched in 2006 as an upscale neighborhood restaurant with a serious attitude toward wine and cocktails (ask your server a question about what you’re drinking, and he may reappear at the table with his wine atlas). The offerings reflect chef Pete Sueltenfuss’s love of traditional New England foods, from a house-made hot dog with brown bread, baked beans, and pickled cabbage ($8) to a memorable grilled pork chop ($21). Dishes can be heavy—on a recent visit, bacon appeared in about a third of them—but strategic ordering can yield a soul-warming dinner. Eats Like a Meal: The aforementioned hot dog, accompanied by a dish of house-marinated olives ($4).

280 Green St., Cambridge, 617-876-1655, greenstreetgrill.com.

Kitchen on Common

This tiny 16-seater has been around only since September, but Joh Kokubo has already attracted a devoted crew of regulars. For some, it’s his commitment to the sustainability ethos: The butternut squash in his creamy soup ($5) comes from a local CSA that supplies him with produce throughout the winter; the table butter is from Vermont; and soon he’ll offer locally blended herbal tea. For others, it’s the sweet prices: The most expensive entrées (grilled pork loin and chili-rubbed tenderloin tips) are $15, and starters peak at $5. The only drawback? Hours are limited, with closing time at 8:30 p.m. So get there early—tables fill up fast. Side Show: The homey accompaniments are just $4 each, which means you could eat your way through a feast of potatoes (both mashed and roasted), macaroni gratin, roasted beets and greens, herbed mushrooms, and maple roasted carrots, all for $24.

442 Common St., Belmont, 617-484-4328, kitchenoncommon.com.

La Morra

This quaint Brookline Village restaurant has the kind of backstory food writers are suckers for: Native son Josh Ziskin and his wife and business partner, Jen, earn their stripes at local restaurants (Tuscan Grill, Maison Robert); eat their way through Italy; and return determined to bring that pure flavor and simplicity to their own place. Their travels come to life in the $4-and-under cicchetti menu—based on the tapas-style small bites (arancini, stuffed olives, chicken livers) that are so popular in Venice—and in the very Tuscan cavolo nero (black kale) that comes with a crispy braised pork shank ($21). Even the brick-and-wood-beam dining rooms feel a bit rustic Italian, by way of New England. Justifiable Splurge: The rare Piedmontese Barbarescos and Barolos on the wine menu ($60 and up).

48 Boylston St., Brookline Village, 617-739-0007, lamorra.com.

Myers + Chang

Promotional materials promise “No gloppy sauces…no ancient Chinese secret,” and this modern Asian diner delivers <> with a fresher, brighter spin on classics like dan dan noodles, pot stickers, and tea-smoked spare ribs. Aside from the market-price lobster, there’s nothing on the menu that costs more than $15 (though portions can be small, so consider ordering multiple dishes). Even in the few plates that seem like works in progress (like the too-harsh hot and sour soup), you can’t help but feel inspired by the spirit of invention. Cure for What Ails: The superlative beef pho ($10), made with a broth so rich, it’s practically gravy.

1145 Washington St., Boston, 617-542-5200, myersandchang.com.

Olé

Chef and co-owner Erwin Ramos didn’t grow up on burritos and mole (he’s Filipino). And his culinary training was classically French and Italian. Once he took an interest in Mexican cuisine, though, he went full throttle, immersing himself in the country’s diverse regional styles. Olé’s menu reflects that education, taking diners on a journey through the familiar (chicken enchiladas with Mexican rice and black beans, $14.70) and the far-flung (Chiapas-style chili-seasoned pork with plantains and homemade tortillas, $18). And while one entrée, the lobster meat and shrimp in a garlic-guajillo sauce, barely cracks our price limit at $26, the rest of the expansive menu is pleasantly economical. Special Sauce: The superb guacamole ($9), prepared tableside in a traditional molcajete.

11 Springfield St., Cambridge, 617-492-4495, olegrill.com.

Orinoco

Owner Andres Branger serves up far-from-pedestrian comfort food in this vibrant Venezuelan haven, where the brightly colored décor chases away the winter blahs, and the pabellón criollo, warmly spiced shredded beef, dispels any lingering chill. Chef Carlos Rodriguez trained with Doug Rodriguez (no relation), considered the father of the “Nuevo Latino” movement in Miami, as evidenced in specials like the cordero: lamb chops crusted with pistachio, panela, and plantain, and served with mint mojo. Pair it with a terrific malbec from Argentina or some fresh passion fruit juice, and you have yourself a new antidote to seasonal affective disorder. Buen Comida: A mechada (beef) arepa ($5.95) with the beet and goat cheese salad ($7).

477 Shawmut Ave., Boston, 617-369-7075, orinocokitchen.com. 

Petit Robert Bistro

As satisfying as some of the newer Boston brasseries can be, their menus often bend to American tastes. Petit Robert Bistro, on the other hand, feels 100 percent Gallic. It helps that it’s owned by a Frenchman, Jacky Robert, who cooked for many years at his family’s late, great Maison Robert. Now he’s running his own ship, serving classic dishes like escargots bourguignons ($7.75), traditional sole and shrimp quenelles ($10.50), and coq au vin ($15.75) at his twin restaurants in Kenmore Square and the South End. Service can at times be brusque—but that just makes it all the more authentic, doesn’t it? Powerful Stuff: The hearty lamb cassoulet with merguez sausage and bacon ($16.75).

468 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-375-0699; 480 Columbus Ave., Boston, 617-867-0600; petitrobertbistro.com.

Pops

He’s not trying to reinvent American cooking, but chef-owner Felino Samson still manages to surprise and delight with touches like the peppery apple cider gastrique glaze on his Kurobuta pork chop ($19), the argan oil and lemon crème fraîche dressing on the beet and arugula salad ($9), and the organic pickles that accompany the generous sandwiches. Throughout the menu, organic ingredients play a big role, and the lovely décor gets the belle époque vibe just right. It’s all about the details here—an approach perhaps most appreciated in the gooey fresh-baked cookie that arrives with a lunchtime check. Frivolous Indulgence: The optional drizzle of white truffle oil on any dish for $14. (Really, the food has plenty of flavor on its own.)

560 Tremont St., Boston, 617-695-1250, popsrestaurant.net.

Rocca

The debut of Rocca last year was a watershed in the midprice restaurant boom: a major, press-grabbing launch from local legend Michela Larson and partners Gary Sullivan and Karen Haskell—cofounders of Rialto and Blu—with an enthusiastic Ligurian-themed menu and most entrées kept under $23. Prices have come up a bit since, making this one of the costlier entries on our list, but the satisfying pasta dishes still run from $12 to $17, and the most expensive entrées—the outstanding roasted fish with herbs, olives, and potatoes, as well as the Ligurian fish stew burrida, both at $25—continue to deliver solid value. That’s an Order: Anything made with chef Tom Fosnot’s extraordinary pesto.

500 Harrison Ave., Boston, 617-451-5151, roccaboston.com.

Sagra

This Davis Square eatery is both welcoming neighborhood Italian place and destination restaurant. While the dining room still has the awkward layout of one of Sagra’s predecessors, the lounge Sauce, the food bears no resemblance to pub grub: Chef-owner Robert DeSimone has amassed a stack of unforgettable recipes during numerous trips throughout Italy, and it shows. When you’re feeling decadent, try the Grand Melody sampler of arancini croquettes, calamari, and stuffed olives ($16)—DeSimone is a master of light-as-air frying. Move on to the pillowy gnocchi ($14) that actually taste of the potatoes in the dough, or a fine grilled swordfish served with caponata ($17). Textbook Italian: The bitter greens salad ($7), followed by the bruschetta appetizer ($7).

400 Highland Ave., Somerville, 617-625-4200, sagrarestaurant.com.

The Savant Project

If you’re wondering where the artists and cool kids have gone now that most of the South End is too expensive, drop into the Savant Project. The Mission Hill restaurant and lounge is a Cheers for the boho set, an always-animated gathering spot with local art on the walls, live music, and potent cocktails. The concept is Asian-Latin fusion, a conceit that might seem overworked if dishes like scallop ceviche in a fried plantain cup ($5.50) and beef sliders with grilled cucumber and toasted rice vinegar ($5.50) weren’t so fun. We’re looking forward to seeing chef Isaac Kaufman expand the range of entrées (for now, try the crispy chicken served with a sweet potato pancake for $17), so long as he also retains his sense of playful experimentation. Mmm…Doughnuts: The crispy-gooey churros with a spicy chocolate dipping sauce ($6).

1625 Tremont St., Boston, 617-566-5958, thesavantproject.com.

Ten Tables

The pastas and sausages are house-made. In season, the produce comes from nearby farms. The menu has a decidedly European bent, but there’s a New England sensibility at play, too. This is Boston’s truest Chez Panisse descendant—only with much more egalitarian prices. Which is why, these days, you have to call at least seven days ahead to get a reservation. Chef David Punch’s menu changes weekly, to capture whatever’s freshest in the markets. In winter, that can mean delicacies like rock shrimp with orecchiette, black pepper, and pancetta ($17), or soothing roasted polenta with mushroom ragout, braised kale, and a poached egg ($16). Green Party: An elegant (and surprisingly substantial) four-course vegetarian tasting ($25), offered every day except Wednesday.

597 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-524-8810, tentables.net.

Trattoria Toscana

After two Italian expat pals described Trattoria Toscana as their favorite Boston restaurant, we knew it was time to take a look. Grazie mille for the recommendation—this little Fenway gem captures the spirit and style of a Florence trattoria, without the punishing exchange rate. The cooking stays true to the Italian ethos of coaxing maximum flavor out of a simple array of ingredients (good olive oil, garlic, fresh mushrooms and tomatoes). And if the décor won’t win any awards, it is warm and homey, just like the food. Quite the Hunk: The tagliata di manzo ($22), a nicely seasoned grilled sirloin served with peppery arugula and shaved Parmesan cheese.

130 Jersey St., Boston, 617-247-9508.

Tremont 647

Chef Andy Husbands’s cooking reflects his love of southern accents, whether that means the American South (New Orleans barbecued shrimp, $9.50; ribs and cornbread, $19.50), south of the border (lime and garlic chicken with jicama salad, $20), or Southeast Asia (Vietnamese coffee, $4). What holds it all together is Husbands’s gift for Big Flavor, not to mention his staff’s polished but casually friendly approach to service. This is the kind of place where one could easily imagine becoming a regular—which helps explain why Tremont 647 has lasted more than 10 years as one of the South End’s neighborhood go-tos. All-American Team: The half-pound burger of grass-fed beef ($12.50) paired with sides of coleslaw and cornbread ($3 each).

647 Tremont St., Boston, 617-266-4600, tremont647.com.

—By Amy Traverso