Fresh Idea: The Devil Inside

Photo by Dave Bradley

Once a humble cookout snack, the deviled egg has gone high-brow. Forget basic paprika — local chefs are now topping them off with everything from squid ink (American Seasons in Nantucket) to truffle oil (Teatro). Chef Michael Scelfo’s version at Russell House Tavern is decidedly nontraditional, featuring cantaloupe, shrimp, avocado, and chili oil. At Hungry Mother, meanwhile, chef Barry Maiden says deviled eggs honor his southern roots: “I grew up eating them, and my mom makes them best.” Maiden fills his with a mix of yolks, mayo, Dijon mustard, pickles, vinegar, and cayenne, and tops them with meats like bacon or duck prosciutto. “We don’t cut corners,” he says. “We pipe the filling to order, and use delicious, great eggs. It’s hard to nail something that simple and make it shine.”