Small Bite: Veggie Galaxy

The idea of an all-vegetarian restaurant tends to make meat eaters shudder. But it’s not all about tempeh, seitan, and tofu at new Central Square diner Veggie Galaxy.

Photo by Dan Watkins

Photo by Dan Watkins

The idea of an all-vegetarian restaurant tends to make meat eaters shudder. But it’s not all about tempeh, seitan, and tofu at new Central Square diner Veggie Galaxy; here cautious types can dig into decent meatless fare like the crisp herbed fries ($3) and mac ’n’ cheese ($9); the latter was a bit too runny, but had a nice panko crust. The black bean and mushroom-chickpea burgers ($9–$10), however, fell flat, delivering on texture but lacking in flavor. And the tempeh “bacon” in the club sandwich ($9.50)? It won’t fool anyone looking for the real deal. There are instances where faux meat shines, like the smoked tofu that was a smart replacement for corned beef in the Reuben ($9). And the vegan desserts, like rich layered Taza chocolate cake ($5.25) and a convincing lemon meringue pie ($6.50, pictured), were downright delicious.

450 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-497-1513, veggiegalaxy.net.