Somerville’s Feeding Frenzy
Pecan-crusted pork chop with candied-cherry sauce, Brussels sprouts, and corn on the cob from M3, now open in Davis Square. (Photo by Ekaterina Smirnova)
The Demographics: The city has a higher percentage of young people (ages 20 to 34) than the broader region and state, according to a 2009 report by Somerville’s Office of Strategic Planning. Somerville’s population density is also the highest in New England. Add it all up and you’ve got a lot of young, educated, and hungry people packed into a very small area.
The Bang for the Buck: “Pound for pound, you’re getting more value for your dollar in Somerville,” says local butcher Michael Dulock, who looked into spaces in the South End and Cambridge before settling on Union Square for his forthcoming shop, M. F. Dulock Pasture-Raised Meats. That’s especially true for businesses that serve booze — liquor licenses in Somerville are a steal compared with Boston. Magoun Square barbecue newcomer East End Grill, for example, recently procured a full license for $125,000. The same license in Boston could go for as much as $450,000.
The Can-Do Spirit: Restaurateurs say that officials in Somerville are refreshingly accessible — unlike in Boston, the land of red tape. Casa B co-owner Angelina Jockovich recalls the process of opening her Union Square tapas spot: “We sent an e-mail to the mayor’s office, and they called within 24 hours to set up a meeting.” Joe Cassinelli, owner of Posto and the Painted Burro, says he knows “all the ladies who work the desks at City Hall. People are really nice, and that’s why things get done.”
The Indie Appetite: Somerville has a thriving food subculture that’s bolstered by the organization Union Square Main Streets. The community group puts on the annual Fluff festival as well as a popular farmers’ market and the new hipster-picnic fantasy that is Swirl & Slice — an evening market featuring wine, cheese, cured meats, breads, jams, pickles, and more. The Somerville Arts Council, meanwhile, offers “market tours” of off-the-beaten-path ethnic stores such as Capone’s, La Internacional Foods, and Little India.