Best of Boston

1998 Best Neighborhood Restaurant, West


It’s fascinating to watch owner/ chef Paul Booras slave over the stove in the small kitchen here. It’s even more rewarding to taste what he does with wood grilled salmon and monkfish, hanger steak, and thick racks of pork. Located next to the Needham Center MBTA station, the stone-walled hideaway is not easy to find but definitely worth the effort. Booras— a veteran of Pomodoro and Olives— also opened the new Mediterranean spot Sweet Basil down the street. How lucky can one town be?

1027 Great Plains Ave., Needham, 781-455-8668,