Best of Boston

1999 Best French Restaurant

Maison Robert

We liked this Boston institution even before its recent renovation, but it’s great to see it at the top of its game. Redecorating its Old City Hall surroundings hasn’t hurt, but the real draw is Maison Robert’s innovative cuisine. Among the appetizers, its foie gras with sauteed apples and caramelized blinis is spectacular. As for the entrees, its Maine lobster, smoked over applewood, might be the lobster dish in town. French with a twist. Its wine list boasts some terrific values.

45 School St., Boston, 617-227-3370,