Best of Boston

1999 Best Cannoli

Modern Pastry Shop

Don’t ever trust a bakery with prefilled cannoli. Modern fills them on the spot, so you don’t get soggy cylinders found at so many pastry counters. The shell of this perfect cannoli is light and flaky, never greasy, and the not-too-sweet ricotta cream is never dry or slimy. Filling cannoli to order takes longer than squirting the cream in advance, but if you’re in a rush, you shouldn’t be in the North End anyway.

257 Hanover St., Boston, 617-523-3783,