Best of Boston

French food can be oh-so fussy. Unless Tony Maws is behind the stove. Maws passes on clichéd classics in favor of unusual ingredients that make each dish sing: Duck tongue decorates a smoked potato purée, fava leaves brighten a curry-poached trout, and quince and candied dates balance decadent seared foie gras. With a new menu each day, the only Gallic standard that applies here is bon appétit!