Best of Boston

2008 Best Italian Restaurant, West

La Campania

Given its Main Street address and wall of accolades from the likes of Wine Spectator and Zagat right inside the front door, there’s no pretending La Campania is an undiscovered jewel. The beauty is, it still feels like one. Stepping into a rustic dining room glowing with candles and tiny winged lights, even regulars must sense a kind of secret privilege. The handmade staples—bread with cheese-and-pancetta strata, tender filled pastas—and gourmet Italian-inspired entrées are robust and delicate by turns, all complemented by a choice of more than 300 unique Italian wines. La Campania’s a crowd-pleaser, to be sure, but one that comes off like a private affair.

504 Main St., Waltham, 781-894-4280,