Best of Boston

2009 Best Barbecue Restaurant

M&M Ribs

Over the past year, the mouthwatering aromas wafting from this rig near the corner of Hampden and Norfolk may as well have been smoke signals, announcing an upset was brewing in 2009. Indeed, this category’s long-reigning suburban champ has seen its eponymous blue ribbon go instead to a gritty city underdog, literally a truck stationed in a Roxbury sandlot. The former’s superior burnt brisket ends aside, recent visits found that its poultry had chickened out a bit on smoke flavor. By contrast, the succulent chicken, slow-grilled ribs, and tangy, faintly fiery sauce served up by M&M’s near-legendary pit master, ‘Big Moe,’ stayed right on cue.

102 Hampden St. between Adams St. and Kemble St., Boston, 617-306-0788,