Best of Boston

2019 Best Ramen

Tsurumen

NINA GALLANT. STYLING BY ELLE SIMONE

This revelatory restaurant treats ramen-making as autobiographical performance art: Self-taught chef Masuo Onishi will operate Tsurumen for only 1,000 days, and reveals a new bowl of springy noodles inspired by a chapter of life every 200 days—such as the Formula 1995, a richly glistening miso ramen with wrinkly wontons that represents early adulthood. Savor every precious slurp.

420 Highland Ave., Somerville, 617-764-0588,

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