Best of Boston
2019 Best Ramen
Tsurumen
NINA GALLANT. STYLING BY ELLE SIMONE
This revelatory restaurant treats ramen-making as autobiographical performance art: Self-taught chef Masuo Onishi will operate Tsurumen for only 1,000 days, and reveals a new bowl of springy noodles inspired by a chapter of life every 200 days—such as the Formula 1995, a richly glistening miso ramen with wrinkly wontons that represents early adulthood. Savor every precious slurp.