Best of Boston

1998 Best Scene, Restaurant

Mistral

The over-the-top fabulousness of the crowd might make you shy away from the guarded doors if you haven’t had, say, a collagen implant lately. Don’t be deterred. While this isn’t the spot for the most intimate dinner a deux, the minimalist-meets-Provencal decor and inspirational simmerings of Jamie Mammano are worth the trip.

222 Columbus Ave., Boston, 617-867-9300,