Best of Boston

2006 Best Appetizer

Oleana

The theatrics alone make this starter ($9), accented with peaches and sweet peppers, a winner: A waiter pours the anise-flavored liquor over the salty cheese, then lights the dish on fire. The light show is impressive; the taste, even better.

134 Hampshire St., Cambridge, 617-661-0505, oleanarestaurant.com