Best of Boston

Where others might lean on ‘steak wines’ like big California cabs (yawn), Grill 23’s DeWinter is likely to suggest a Paolo Bea Rosso 2000, from the little Umbrian town of Sagrantino, for your bone-in filet—he’s just that excited about the unsung heroes in his cache of some 1,500 labels. Odds are, you will be, too.