Best of Boston

There’s nothing flashy about this 85-year-old institution. But when it’s New England seafood you’re shopping for, quality trumps flair. The fish at Wulf’s, mostly local and undeniably fresh, comes in seasonally, so the selection is well edited and cut to order, sometimes straight from the whole animal. Experienced and genial, the butchers are clad in white aprons and quick with a recipe or thoughts on this season’s striper run.