Best of Boston

When it comes to French food in this town, there’s a mode for every mood, whether you’re looking for a bistro-standard croque-monsieur or a meticulously plated, multicourse extravaganza. Deuxave’s wunderkind chef, Christopher Coombs, cherry-picks from both styles, deftly weaving what could be contradictory impulses—hearty (upgraded) French onion soup; the swoosh-heavy, haute-cuisine-styled "Duo of Pork & First of the Season Apricots" —into an improbably cohesive menu.