Our Travel Guide to a Weekend in Palm Springs

Retro vibes and modern architecture heat up California’s Coachella Valley in the winter.


Courtesy of L’Horizon

Desert Oasis

Dreamed up by desert modern architect William Cody in 1952, L’Horizon originally existed as a private residence with 20 guest houses. Now, designer Steve Hermann has remade its low-slung bungalows—which once hosted A-listers like Marilyn Monroe—into luxe suites outfitted with Frette linens and marble baths. The well-appointed interiors bring the landscape to you, showcasing mountain views through floor-to-ceiling windows.

L’Horizon, 1050 E. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, CA, 760-323-1858, lhorizonpalmsprings.com.

Holiday House

When designer Mark D. Sikes updated the nearly 70-year-old Holiday House last year, he preserved its midcentury-modern design, adding a breezy blue-and-white palette and adorning the walls with pop art by Roy Lichtenstein and David Hockney. Now, guests can enjoy the hotel’s communal atmosphere (read: no TVs), as well as its fleet of polka-dotted bikes perfect for a spin downtown.

200 W. Arenas Rd., Palm Springs, CA, 760-320-8866, holidayhouseps.com.

La Serena Villas

A refreshing departure from Palm Springs’ bubbly vibe, La Serena Villas recalls California’s Spanish roots. Each of its 18 Pueblo-esque dwellings, recently revived by architect May Sung, boasts a private patio complete with a fire pit, a cozy seating area, and an outdoor soaking tub.

339 S. Belardo Rd., Palm Springs, CA, 844-932-8044, laserenavillas.com.


Photograph by Chris Miller

Chill Zone

A gastropub in a former Pizza Hut might not be the first thing that comes to mind when envisioning a night out in Palm Springs, but industrial-chic Draughtsman comes as a welcome surprise. Designed by Chris Pardo, Arrive hotel’s newest restaurant flaunts roll-up garage doors that lead to a back patio with space for games of giant Jenga and cornhole. The menu, helmed by chef Alex Resnick, features such elevated pub fare as short-rib poutine, coffee-rubbed flat iron steak, and beer cocktails.

Draughtsman, 1501 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, CA, 760-507-1644, draughtsmanpalmsprings.com.

Truss & Twine

Next to his well-loved Workshop Kitchen + Bar in the Uptown Design District, chef Michael Beckman recently opened Truss & Twine: a sleek watering hole with a glass façade and a concrete bar. The drink menu travels through time—featuring themes such as Prohibition and the Dark Ages—while the kitchen serves up small plates made with desert ingredients including cactus, rabbit, and bougainvillea.

800 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, CA, 760-459-3451, trussandtwine.com.


Photograph by Jake Holt

Modern Mania

For more than a decade, modern-architecture enthusiasts have descended upon Palm Springs, the mecca of midcentury design, for Modernism Week. At this annual celebration, you’ll find the mother lode of stunning house, neighborhood, and walking tours. Round out the week with films and lectures—and a few swanky cocktail parties, of course. New additions to this year’s event include a sacred-places tour, which highlights midcentury-modern houses of worship around town.

Modernism Week, 2/15/18–2/25/18, modernismweek.com.

Photograph by Jake Holt

“In Conversation: Alma Allen & J.B. Blunk”

Sculptors Alma Allen and J.B. Blunk never met before Blunk died in 2002, yet the aesthetics of their curved works are remarkably similar. The Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture and Design Center imagines what it might have been like if they’d crossed paths, hosting an exhibit that juxtaposes their sculpture, furniture, and small objects.

2/3/18–6/4/18, Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture and Design Center, 300 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, CA, 760-423-5260, psmuseum.org.