For Brunch in Allston, Go Deep

1212164315Packed with storefront joints whose menus span the globe—as well with as hordes of thirsty college students—Allston for years has been a kind of culinary version of 1840’s California: While there’s a lot of wealth here in Rock City, it’s not a destination for those with, let’s say, delicate sensibilities. Yet amid the neighborhood’s trademark grittiness, and occasional hooliganism, there are a few beacons of civility.

And so it is that we found ourselves heading to Allston for brunch (yes, brunch). A few blocks from the heart of Allston, up Cambridge Street toward Twin Donuts, sits an inviting little bar called Deep Ellum.

Opened in 2007 by a group including two Bukowski Tavern alums, it has classic deep-cherry-colored wood throughout, a black and white tiled floor, mile-high ceilings, and windows that open onto a (relatively) quiet part of the main drag. It’s fast made its rep as a beer lover’s mecca, highlighting honest, locally crafted brews, but we came for the home cookin’—and Deep Ellum did not disappoint.

The breakfast burrito was the favorite: Stuffed with cheese, savory potatoes, eggs, tomatoes, and onions, this fat boy stood up like a champ to our perhaps-too-enthusiastic application of hot sauce. Also a winner was the poached eggs Florentine, dressed with delicate spinach-Pernod cream.

Delicate spinach-Pernod cream in a bar?! True it is. These guys aren’t just slinging hash back there. They’re busy curing the bacon and making the sausage and otherwise laying the groundwork for an honest, locally crafted breakfast. We’re fans, and we’ll be back—especially since Deep Ellum will soon open a brand-new back patio that looks perfect for sipping bloody marys on a peaceful summer morning, while Allston’s rowdy youngsters are still deep in blissful, pre-hangover slumber.

Deep Ellum, 477 Cambridge St., Allston, 617-787-2337,