First Bite: The Battery

Fish_boxNot too long ago, Chowder had a hamburger. Not just any hamburger, mind you. This one had been put through a deep-fryer, the thick batter on the outside puffy and crisp, the meat inside thin and tough as leather. Our arteries—and our taste buds—were thankful we left some on the plate.

Luckily, that unfortunate foodstuff wasn’t the reason we visited the aptly named Battery in Brighton Center. We had stopped into the tiny storefront to sample the fish and chips, hoping in the process to find what the signage promises, an “authentic Irish chipper.” Indeed, the menu of battered haddock, battered sausage, chips and dips, and yes, that fateful battered burger, all but guaranteed the diminutive counter-service spot would live up to its claim—and its name.

As for the fish and chips? The haddock, moist, and flaky, is good, but the dense batter, slightly greasy and lacking seasoning, could use some work—a dash of malt vinegar and a shake of salt helps. The chips, however, are just as we like them: Thick-cut, crisp on the outside and soft and potato-y on the inside. There’s plenty of sauces and dips to choose from, too, like garlic mayo, curry, and gravy, and traditional Irish sides like mushy peas.

On a menu where almost every item is fried, this is definitely the polar opposite of diet food. So I ask, faithful Chowder readers: Have you ever consumed a deep-fried burger that was worth the probable 10 straight hours of vigorous exercise it’d take to burn it off? And what other unusual greasy concoctions have made it into your stomach? Let’s discuss.

The Battery, 379 Washington Street, Brighton, 617-987-0884