Coming Right Up: ESK Turns Six

In six short years, Eastern Standard has easily captured the heart of this city’s food and cocktail culture. If you’re an eater or a drinker in this town, the boisterous brasserie has what you want: stiff, expertly crafted cocktails poured by a bonded set of pros, a simple, yet inspired menu (often sprinkled with offal) of dishes that are easy to dip into any time of day, and almost always, a familiar face at the door or elsewhere in the room. For folks in the restaurant industry, it’s become the common denominator–you’ve either worked there, know someone who has, or drink with those that do.

It’s only fitting, then, that one of the city’s country’s most popular chefs found his footing in that kitchen. And though Jamie Bissonnette has his own stage these days, he has never forgotten the one that launched him into the spotlight. Which is why you’ll find him back in the ES kitchen after four years on Thursday night, cooking the late-night menu for the restaurant’s 6th birthday.

ESK proprietor Garrett Harker says he’s psyched to have Biss back on the line. “I’m really proud of the team, excited for 6 more years, and glad to give Jamie a chance to demonstrate how much he’s grown since the bastard left me,” he tells us. Harker himself will even jump in to help, serving as Bissonnette’s sous chef for the night.

Expect an industry-driven love fest and lots of late-night snacks, including something called, appropriately, “Fried Awesomeness” (salt cod fritters “JB” style with spicy ketchup and gribiche), spaetzle and sea urchin carbonara, and a sweetbread po’ boy with pickled green tomatoes.

5/26, 11 pm to close. Eastern Standard, 528 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-532-9100,