Small Bite: Otto Pizza Coolidge Corner

Photo by Michael Piazza

The Vibe
This Portland, Maine, pizza institution first showed us what it was made of in 2011, when its Harvard Square to-go spot generated buzz for a superlative butternut squash-cranberry ricotta pie. For the new Coolidge Corner outpost, the team created a much bigger space, complete with a dining room, soft lighting, and a large bar.

The Food
The unexpected toppings here somehow make sense on a thin, crisp crust. Potatoes, for example, combined with bacon and scallions for a wonderfully dense mashed-potato pie ($12 for a small) that was almost like pub-grub potato skins. Mangoes, meanwhile, gave a spicy pulled-pork pizza ($11 for a small, pictured above) a subtly sweet flavor. And a classic margherita ($11 for a small), with lots of sliced tomatoes and strips of basil, was a traditionalist’s dream.

The Verdict
Any concerns about whether Otto can handle more than grab-and-go (though you can still do that here) were quickly eased. We’ll happily linger over a few pies and pints the next time we’re headed to Brookline.

289 Harvard St., Brookline, 617-232-0014, ottoportland.com.