Same place, different tastes. Michael Schlow, known for Tico and his recently shuttered Via Matta, returns to the kitchen early next week with Doretta Taverna and Raw Bar, his take on Mediterranean meze. Doretta’s menu, inspired by his wife’s Greek background, channels simple, sophisticated flavors from dishes like fava bean hummus and oysters with a cucumber mignonette.
Schlow, a James Beard winner with a smattering of restaurants around the city, closed his 12-year Italian institution last spring. Doretta Taverna’s menu lies in stark contrast to the cavatelli and Bolognese of its predecessor with a variety of spreads, small plates and entrees—the latter separated into the sparsely designated categories “meat” or “fish.” The crudo comes from a display raw bar, with East Coast classics like lobster and mussels as well as Yellowtail served with green olives and spicy lemon. More casual sides include Greek French fries and string beans in olive oil.
And good news for the Via Matta faithful, as a number of the Italian favorites reappear on the Doretta menu, such as Schlow’s Mediterranean Branzino.
Other Michael Schlow restaurants include Wellesley’s Alta Strata, the Tex-Mex-esque Tico in Boston and D.C., and a handful of other eateries around New England.
79 Park Plaza, Boston, 617-422-0008, dorettaboston.com.
Source URL: https://www.bostonmagazine.com/restaurants/2015/09/25/first-look-doretta-taverna-schlow/
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