Boston used to be a tri-pie town: spongy Greek, crisped-to-the-tip new York–style, or charred-and-chewy Neapolitan. (And, sure, maybe you could sneak a slice of Sicilian in the North End.) But in this pizza-mad moment, when terms like cornicione and pizzaiolo are casually bandied about, chefs are staking claim to the exotic: think hybrid doughs, long fermentation times, and a tapestry of unorthodox toppings (pig cheek and pickled fennel, anyone?). Here, an introduction to the city’s new class of pizza top-liners.
North End legend Tony Susi (formerly of Sage) returns from a lengthy consulting hiatus to helm the newest concept from the team behind Lincoln Tavern. To complement Capo’s throwback aesthetic—complete with jugs of Italian table red—the chef went coal-fired on the pizza menu. Veering ever so slightly from New Haven’s crispy “apizza” style, Susi adds a small amount of double-zero flour into a high-gluten blend, as evidenced by this pliant porchetta-and-pesto pie.
443 W. Broadway, South Boston, 617-993-8080, caposouthboston.com.
2. Sillari’s Pizza
A collaboration between Somerville butcher Michael Dulock and chef Scott Sillari, this upcoming Malden shop will feature what they’re calling “New England Neapolitan” pizza: thin-crust, hand-tossed pies made with dough fermented for an extended 72 hours. Toppings are limited to the classics (pepperoni, sausage), but on weekends, the duo will cut loose with seasonal specials made in a variety of styles, including Roman and Chicago deep dish.
97 Medford St., Malden.
Michael Scelfo might be better known for his burger bona fides, but the chef says he’s been “spinning pies” since his college days. In fact, Alden & Harlow is the first restaurant where he hasn’t wielded a pizza peel. This summer, he’ll make up for that résumé gap at his highly anticipated seafood joint, Waypoint, where everything—even the umami-rich rounds tiled with smoked anchovies and locally sourced pig cheek—comes courtesy of the coast.
1030 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, waypointharvard.com.
“We look alike, we talk alike, we’re Lynches through and through,” says chef Kerri Lynch-Delaney, referring to her aunt and business partner, Barbara (yes, that Barbara) Lynch, whom she worked with during a stint at No. 9 Park. But when it comes to Lynch-Delaney’s inspiration in the kitchen, she also credits her father, whose now-shuttered Southie watering hole, the Quiet Man, was famous for its bar grub. Those two worlds collide at 16C, where steak tips are served alongside sheet-pan pizzas crafted with double-zero flour, scamorza, and fried shallots.
16 Cottage Ave., Quincy.
Since taking their wood-fired-pizza operation to the streets in 2014, Scott Riebling and Toirm Miller have redefined the boundaries of the mobile medium. A cramped flattop and deep fryer? Try a 3,500-pound oven on a food truck. Now the duo is bringing their hybrid New Haven/Neapolitan pies to a larger stage with Stoked’s newly opened Washington Square brick-and-mortar, where a tricked-out Pavesi “Twister” (which has a rotating floor for more-balanced blistering) is cranking out pizzas featuring tantalizing combinations such as lobster and prosciutto with Peruvian chili peppers.
1632 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-982-3473, stokedpizzaco.com.
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