Time to Make the Ramen

While Boston sleeps, the broth slowly simmers at Ruckus. Here’s a peek at the kitchen’s labor-intensive 18-hour cooking process.

Photograph by Toan Trinh

5:30 p.m.

Chef Mike Stark starts by roasting 30 pounds of chicken backs, 50 pounds of pork bones, and 20 pounds of chicken feet in a 425-degree oven.

6 p.m.

The bones are dumped into a stockpot with water and brought to a boil.

6:45 p.m.

Roughly chopped lemongrass, charred ginger, garlic cloves, dried mushrooms, roasted onions, dried yatsufusa chilies, and roasted pork skins get tossed into the bubbling cauldron.

7 p.m. to 10 a.m.

The broth slowly simmers overnight.

10 a.m.

The liquid is brought back to a boil to emulsify the fat, bolstering its silky mouthfeel.

11 a.m.

Stark removes the broth from the heat and enhances it with kombu (dried kelp).

11:30 a.m.

Out goes the kombu and in comes the final flavoring agent: umami-rich bonito flakes.


The steaming broth is strained and ready for ladling into bowls.

See more from our 2017 Top New Restaurants feature.

Jenna Pelletier Jenna Pelletier, Food Editor at Boston Magazine