Tupelo
Down-home, classic southern food is what pulls locals through Tupelo's doors, and the rustic charm and hospitality are what keep them at the table—downing andouille-and-okra-flecked gumbo and plates of fried oysters. Oh, and those folks wandering in after 9 p.m. looking for crispy grits and locally produced brews? Ain't no thang; this is one joint where that kind of behavior is encouraged. 1193 Cambridge St., Cambridge, MA 2139, tupelo02139.com.
Oishii
Sushi restaurants these days often look like futuristic temples, and the newfangled rolls they serve are themselves elaborate works of architecture. So it may seem surprising that a cramped 13-seat spot with nightly hour-long waits continues to inspire such reverence. And then you taste the fish: buttery baby hamachi scattered with slivered jalapeño; a teacup full of creamy Kumamoto oyster sashimi; and, for timid eaters, stellar samples of standard tuna and salmon. 612 Hammond St., Chestnut Hill, MA 2467, oishiiboston.com.
902 Main
With fish, there's nothing better than fresh-from-the-ocean, as chef Gilbert Pepin well knows. In season, locally caught seafood arrives daily at his South Yarmouth restaurant and gets turned into servings of chilled Cummaquid oysters, Chatham littlenecks, sautéed halibut, and lobster truffle risotto. To finish, there are wonderful ice creams, also very locally mad—out back in the kitchen. 902 Main St. (Rte. 28), South Yarmouth, MA 902main.com.
Great Bay
A Maine native, chef Jeremy Sewall has spent more than enough time on the New England coast to develop a healthy respect for fish and shellfish—and just enough time in California (at the Lark Creek Inn) to avoid the Yankee fondness for giant portions and buttery sauces. Sewall's sensibilities often lean toward Asian preparations—especially at the raw bar, where he serves freshly shucked oysters with chive mignonette alongside Japanese octopus ceviche with lemongrass-ginger juice. 500 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, MA .
Cisco Brewers
With a brewery, distillery, and winery all surrounding one chill courtyard, this is the perfect place to while away a few afternoon hours on the Grey Lady. Sip a Summer of Lager, slurp oysters (if you're lucky enough to catch the occasional raw bar), and play cornhole, all set to live tunes played by local musicians. Bonus: It's located off the new Hummock Pond Road bike path, so you can safely coast there and back to town. 5 Bartlett Farm Rd., Nantucket, MA ciscobrewers.com.
Izakaya Ittoku
At an authentic Japanese izakaya, the food is meant to serve as a supporting role to the endless flow of sake. But at this Brighton hangout, the infinitely snackable dishes—flame-licked yakitori-style skewered meats, crisp fried oysters, the noodle omelet hybrid known as omusoba—are just as much of a draw. Maximize your experience of the massive menu (and the hefty platters of pan-fried pork and kimchi) by indulging with friends. 1414 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, MA 2135, .
Legal Sea Foods
Red wine with meat, white wine with fish—whoa, not so fast! Wine director Sandy Block has compiled 40 pages (because 41 would just be silly) of bottles selected in blind tastings for menu compatibility, resulting in the ideal muscadet for those oysters and the right sangiovese for that spicy cioppino. Some three dozen vintages are available by the glass, and there are five tasting flights (three priced under $10) that change from one visit to the next. The inventory at last year's ace, Troquet, is still worthy, but at the end of the day the options and value are at Legal. 26 Park Plaza, Boston, MA 2116, legalseafoods.com.
French Memories
The low-key town of Duxbury is better known for bivalves than brioche, but that doesn't keep this café's Paris-born bakers (the same artistes behind Café Vanille in Boston and Chestnut Hill) from turning out the most decadent pastries on the South Shore. Flaky napoleons, rich éclairs, petite financiers, elegant pear tarts, all types of crusty loaves, and other French classics beckon from the shelves, but it's the enormous croissants—especially apricot and chocolate—and the chewy-moist coconut macaroons (a.k.a. congolais) that really convince pastry lovers that the world's their oyster. 459 Washington St., Duxbury, MA 2332, frenchmemories.com.
Grass Fed
Within weeks of its spring opening, this spot from Ten Tables maven Krista Kranyak won the hearts of J.P. residents with Parmesan-truffle fries, Baileys-spiked vanilla milkshakes, and (what else?) grass-fed burgers topped with everything from harissa aioli to fried oysters. There are lots of other great options, too, like fried-shrimp po' boys, turkey clubs, and kraut-topped hot dogs. Little surprise, then, that the small space is packed nightly with stroller-toting families eating elbow-to-elbow with too-cool hipsters. 605 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, MA 2130, grassfedjp.com.
Giordano's Restaurant
Before you board the ferry in Oak Bluffs, make time for one more taste of island living at its greasy, salty, satisfying best: a cardboard box full of Giordano's fried clams. Housed in a no-frills walk-up stand (there are a couple of picnic tables outside) just across from the Flying Horses carousel, Giordano's fries the clams in a light batter until they're crisp and serves them with fresh tartar sauce and lemon wedges. You could order a side of crunchy, boardwalk-style fries, but leave room instead to sample the superlative fried oysters or a lobster roll. 107-109 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, MA giosmv.com.
The Pheasant
Does food taste better in an old red barn? If it’s served by husband-and-wife team Adam and Erica Dunn, the answer is a definitive yes. The Cape-sourced, shareable menu here changes with the seasons, but expect artfully plated dishes like scallop ceviche and oysters with lemon-seaweed mignonette served with a side of five-star hospitality at this hidden gem, which reopened in 2018 under new ownership. And don’t forget to check out the “living wine list” — the small wine shop in the dining room — for a bottle of natural vino to enjoy at your table or back at home. 905 Route 6A, Dennis, MA 02638, pheasantcapecod.com.
Row 34
The recent shuttering of seafood landmark Island Creek Oyster Bar has made us even more protective of chef Jeremy Sewall’s legendary lobster roll, which lives on (thank heavens!) at his Row 34. There we find heaping portions of sweet and tender meat, caught by Sewall’s cousin, a Maine lobsterman. It’s served tossed in warm butter and sprinkled with sea salt, or mixed with cool mayo, cr&_egrave;me fra&_icirc;che, and pickles for “Ethel’s Lobster Roll,” named for Sewall’s grandmother — a family recipe for lasting success if there ever was one. Multiple locations, row34.com.
Row 34
This Fort Point spot from the Island Creek Oyster Bar team is as much a serious beer bar as it is a seafood mecca. Maybe that’s why cult-followed breweries seem to celebrate special occasions here—think only-at-Row drafts from Bissell Brothers, Dieu du Ciel, and Upland Brewing. Beer director Suzanne Hays has saved deep cuts, such as cellared bottles from the dearly departed Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project, for past Sunday specials, but any day, it’s the best place for a rotating selection of fresh hops and food-friendly sours. 383 Congress St., Boston, MA 02210, row34.com.
American Seasons
American Seasons co-owner Orla Murphy LaScola greets patrons with a charming Irish brogue as she seats them on the cool, inviting porch or in the warm, rustic dining room. Wherever they sit, they're in for a treat: Chef-owner Michael LaScola's creations—which include such delights as fried oyster and rare beef salad with mustard greens and orange, and blackberry-anise bomb—are seasonally inspired and beautifully executed. Dine here during a weekend getaway, and you'll soon find yourself studying ferry schedules just to plot your next feast. 80 Centre St., Nantucket Island, MA 2554, americanseasons.com.
East Coast Grill & Raw Bar
It could be the regular eruptions of the volcano in the Lava Lounge. Or the Sunday morning brunch, complete with a make-your-own-bloody mary bar. It could be the open kitchen jumping with live fire and young chefs wrangling large pieces of meat and fish. Maybe it's the pulled-pork sandwich with crunchy coleslaw and baked beans. But most likely, it's owner Chris Schlesinger's serious approach to having fun that makes the East Coast Grill a restaurant we're happy to head to—even if only to down a dozen briny, local oysters at the raw bar. 1271 Cambridge St., Cambridge, MA eastcoastgrill.net.