Small Bite: Redd’s in Rozzie

Photograph by Jen Beauchesne

Many a charming eatery is turning out cheddar grits and cherry pie these days. But few actually offer true southern hospitality: down-home cooking delivered with a huge grin and a side of biscuits. At just-opened Redd’s in Rozzie, however, Charlotte native Charlie Redd (formerly of Coda and Harvest) does it just right. His menu is heavy on southern dishes like oversize hush puppies ($3.95) with a show-stealing bacon ragout, and a homemade pickle plate ($3.50) with spicy asparagus and sweet radishes. More important, Redd himself is everywhere, running food and chatting up soon-to-be regulars. If you’ve got your fancy shoes on, there’s hearty bistro fare, like a chickpea casserole ($13.95) and arctic char with mustard greens ($17.95). But why bother, when you can have five-hour baked beans ($3.95) or fries served with cheese gravy ($4.95)? While the pulled- pork sandwich ($9.95) could have used a more-substantial sauce, the scrumptious pecan pie ($4.95, pictured at right) — recipe courtesy of Redd’s grandmother — more than made up for it. The only thing we’re really miffed about? No family-style Sunday supper, a southern tradition we’re itching for Redd to bring north.

4257 Washington St., Roslindale, 617-325-1000, reddsinrozzie.com.