Best of Boston

At a moment when Chinatown’s borders are shrinking due to high-end development, this stalwart still thrives by serving neighbors, restaurant industry pros, and lovers of traditional Chinese fare from all over. The unadorned underground space hits the neighborhood restaurant trifecta: It’s superb at one thing (in this case, Hong Kong–style live-tank seafood); great at many things (a long list of Cantonese classics); and value-priced at all of them.