Roman-Style Pizza Arrives in Boston’s South End

Gary’s Pizza’s pepperoni pizza. / Courtesy photo

What happens when a crew with nearly 30 years of fine-dining experience tries its hand at fast-casual? We’ll find out on April 25, when the Columbus Hospitality Group—behind Mistral, Mooo, and more—officially opens Gary’s Pizza in the South End. Worlds away from the group’s luxurious steakhouses and swanky seafood destination, the takeout/delivery-only spot will feature a crowd-pleasing combination of Roman-style pizza, sandwiches, and desserts.

“I’ve always wanted to open a pizzeria,” says chef and co-owner Jamie Mammano (whose middle name is Gary, as is co-owner Paul Roiff’s). “It’s something that’s been on my mind for a long time. Gary’s gave me the chance to do something more casual but still really well-executed.”

Gary’s Pizza’s spring asparagus pizza with salt-cured egg yolk and truffled pecorino. / Photo by Jessica Reyes

Seeing a scarcity of Roman-style pizzerias in Boston’s crowded pizza scene, Mammano and the team decided to focus on the rectangular pies. While Roman pizza looks a bit similar to the Sicilian pizza served more widely  around town, the former “goes through a longer fermentation,” says Mammano, “which gives it a lighter texture and more flavor,” compared to a thick, breadier Sicilian pie. “Roman is crispier, airier, and just a little more refined,” he says.

Gary’s Pizza’s wagyu meatball sub with Wisconsin cheese. / Courtesy photo

Speaking of crispy pizzas, Columbus Hospitality Group has been serving thin-crust grilled pizzas at French-Mediterranean mainstay Mistral for years, including a fan-favorite version topped with beef tenderloin, mashed potato, caramelized onion, and truffle oil. But the pizza at Gary’s will be nothing like this, and Gary’s “has its own identity” from its fancy big siblings, says Mammano. In other words, don’t expect to find takeout versions of signature dishes from other Columbus Hospitality Group restaurants on the menu at the new pizzeria. Still, “the same approach applies: quality ingredients, done right.”

Gary’s Pizza’s prosciutto di Parma pizza with roasted figs, fig jam, and gorgonzola dolce. / Courtesy photo

The team will keep the Gary’s Pizza menu fresh “by rotating in seasonal flavors,” says Mammano. For instance, the opening menu has a pizza that stars spring asparagus, complemented by a four-cheese blend, salt-cured egg yolk, and truffled pecorino. And while Mammano is enthusiastic about all the pizzas (there’s also margherita, spicy soppressata, and more), he loves the sandwich selection, too, particularly the mortadella with Italian mustard fruits (“simple but has a great balance of richness and sweetness”) and the wagyu meatball sub (“just a really satisfying sandwich.”)

Gary’s Pizza’s Roman-style pizzas are available by the slice, half pie, and whole pie. / Photo by Jessica Reyes

Chips and salsa (from Mammano’s Tortilleria Mi Niña) and Caesar salad round out the savory portion of the menu at Gary’s. Dessert’s an important piece of the equation here, too, with gelato by the pint, chocolate chip cookies, tiramisu, mallomars, and more.

Gary’s Pizza sells gelato by the pint. The opening menu includes vanilla bean, cinnamon, pistachio, and chocolate. / Courtesy photo

While so many fast-casual restaurants seem built for cookie-cutter expansion, Gary’s Pizza is “unlikely” to multiply, says Mammano, while keeping the door open for plans to change—“anything’s possible.” For now, though, Gary’s Pizza will serve as a convenient spot for South End locals—and those in delivery range—to celebrate pizza night with a Roman twist.

1744 Washington St., South End, Boston, 617-858-0101, garyspizzaboston.com.